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Posted 20 hours ago

Trumpeter TRU03719 Plastic Model kit

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
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This helped to set the outer diameter tightly into the porthole and centered the innermost tube properly…

Before adding the bolt flanges, I cemented some half round strip to the pintles to give them a cylindrical shape… These guides were slipped over the drill bit and held in place at ninety degrees while drilling. I didn’t need to drill all the way through the hull – only needed enough of a dimple to guide the larger bit. These worked like a charm. In truth, I don’t think I needed these centering holes except for the largest porthole sizes. The bit size would generally match close enough in the small and medium porthole sizes that it didn’t allow for any drift.I will try something I haven't done since I screwed up my friend's Tirpitz when I was about 14... I do build models and have some skill, but I don't measure up to most on here! I'm still pondering the risk/reward for reshaping the bow hawse hole as another example. It might not be worth it if I have a misshaped blob on the bow if I mess it up. And I'm not sure it is worth the effort to cut everything away and insert a 3D print replacement with all the shaping and putty that would still be needed. RMS Titanic Model Research and Tech hosted by Zeno Silva and friends. You’ll find Bob Read, Cyril, and Vasilije all contributing here.

The lower davits were later filled and overpainted, but here is the hull with it's interior lighting. The Portside hull has not been completely painted as it will be displayed at waterline. I will be using a number of books, primarily 'Titanic - The Ship Magnificent', to reference corrections to the hull (and model overall) as I go. I'm not a rivet counter, and have nothing put respect for those who are, but there are some obvious errors and omissions on the hull which even I should be able to fix up. There have been lots of injection moulded models of the Titanic before but this is the first to be in this large scale and it, without doubt, is the most accurate model to date, that isn’t to say there aren’t inaccuracies but more on that later on in the build. For the largest diameter I used the nearest size tubing and filed a beveled edge using a large coarse file. And that's it for the moment. I hope you have enjoyed the challenge I have on the workbench this month. I think I've been at work on this for about 4-5 weeks now (Furlough is brilliant)

That is not to say, however, that this project won’t be a labor of Love. I am building this for my daughter. She has been fascinated by the Titanic tragedy from a very young age. At age six she could tell you all about Captain Smith going down with the ship and nurse Jessop and her surviving multiple sinkings, etc. She made me get up in the wee hours on the exact date/time of the 100 th anniversary of her sinking to ring a bell in commemoration. We’ve even toured Margaret Brown’s home in Denver (nobody called her “Molly” in her lifetime). She is more interested in the human stories than the ship itself but will very much appreciate this representation when it is finally completed. In this view by photographer Robert John Welch, we see that the bolts are now encased in cement (note the lighter color on the outer edges) to streamline the water flow over the rudder surface. Drilling out the portholes alone on this hull will take some time (I intend to light the hull, as well as embellish the included LED kit for the superstructure). Spaces to fill were also traced with tape and transferred to styrene strips to form the next plates.

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